Costume in the Han Dynasty
China's complete code of costume and trappings was established in the Han Dynasty (206BC-220AD). The yarn-dyeing, embroidering and metal-processing technologies developed rapidly in the period, spurring changes in costume and adornments.
The costume code of the Western Han Dynasty (206BC-8AD) followed the one established in the Qin Dynasty (221-206 BC). In the Eastern Han Dynasty, people in black had to wear purple silk adornments to match their clothes. People usually wore costume with a long hat at grand ceremonies offering sacrifices to gods or ancestors. The dress of the queen in these ceremonies consisted of dark-purple frock and black trousers. The silk dress of the queen consisted of cyan frock and buff trousers.
The Western Han Dynasty implemented the Shenyi (long coat) system, which featured a cicada-shaped hat, red clothes and "田"-shaped collar. In addition, people of that time wore jade articles and red shoes. The frock and skirt were sewn together in the Shenyi system. Underpants for memorial ceremonies were decorated with black brims, and those for court dress in feudal China were decorated with red brims. All the garments were collectively called as Chanyi (unlined garment).
Costumes in the Han Dynasty fell into two categories according to Yijin (one or two pieces making up the front of a Chinese jacket or grown). There were two types of garments: the curving-front unlined garment with buttons deviously down from the collar to the axilla; the straight-front unlined garment with buttons were straightly down from the collar to the lower part. Curving-front garment originated from the Shenyi (long coat) prevalent in the Warring States Period, and was still in use in the Han Dynasty. But few people wore the Shenyi garments during the Eastern Han Dynasty.
There were specific stipulations on colors of court garments in the Han Dynasty. Officers must wear garments according to the five time periods, i.e. cyan garments in the spring, red in the first two months of the summer, yellow in the last month of the summer, white in the autumn and black in the winter.
Costumes of the Han Dynasty had 7 features:
1. Wearers must expose underpants' collar form , as the collar was big and curving;
2. Clothes must use white cloth as lining;
3. The width of sleeve was 0.4 meters;
4. The blouse had no sleeve;
5. Wearers of fur clothes should have the fur facing outside;
6. Waistband was very exquisite. Belt hook was made of gold in various lively and interesting animal figures;
7. The male kept the habitude of wearing walking sabres without blades for decoration only.
Female laborers of the Han Dynasty always wore short jackets and long skirts, and their knees were always decorated with long hanging waistbands. Male laborers often wore jackets and calf-nose trousers with aprons around the garments. Farmers, workers, businessmen and scholars were all in the same dressing style at that time.
Related English Chinese translation:
汉 服
中国完整的服装服饰制度在汉朝确立的。汉代染织工艺、剌绣工艺和金属工艺发展较快，推动了服装装饰的变化。
西汉建立时基本上沿用秦朝的服制。东汉时期穿黑色衣服必配紫色丝织的装饰物。祭祀大典上通用的是“长冠服”。皇后的祭祀服是：上衣用绀色，下裳用皂色。皇后的蚕服，上衣用青色，下裳用缥色（浅黄色）。汉文帝当政时比较俭朴，自己穿黑色丝织衣、皮鞋。一般官员要穿禅衣，又名“祗服”。在西汉时期二百年之中，服饰实行“深衣制”，它的特点是象蝉一样的头冠（帽子）、红色的衣服、象田字状的领子、戴玉 、红色的鞋。深衣形制是上衣下裳相连接缝在一起，做祭服的中衣，要缘黑色边，作为朝服的中衣，需缘红色边，当时男女服用极为普遍。服饰总称“禅衣”。禅衣是单层的外衣。禅衣里面有中衣、深衣，其形与禅衣无大区别，只是袖形有变化，都属于单层布帛衣裳。官员在上朝时都要穿黑色禅衣。
汉衣款式以衣襟分类，可以划分两种：一为“曲裾禅衣”，即开襟是从领曲斜至腋下；一为直裾禅衣，是开襟从领向下垂直，此种禅衣又称“ ”。曲裾，即为战国时期流行的深衣。汉代仍然沿用，到东汉，男子穿深衣的已经不多了，一般为直裾衣，但并不能作为正式礼服。这种服式既长又宽，从款式上官民服用基本没有差别，但从原料和颜色上，却可明显显示等级的不同。
汉代朝服的服色有具体规定，一年四季按五时着服，即春季用青色；夏季用红色；季夏用黄色；秋季用白色；冬季用黑色。
汉代着衣有七个特点：
1、穿外衣时，由于领大而且弯曲，穿衣时必需暴露中衣的领型；
2、穿衣必用白色面料做里；
3、袖宽为一尺二寸；
4、衫无袖；
5、穿皮毛服装时裘毛朝外；
6、腰带极为考究，所用带钩以金制成各种兽形，如螳螂形或琵琶形。形象十分生动有趣。一般长度在一寸半至六寸之间，是衣裳中间显要的装饰物。汉带钩从形、色和工艺上都达到了极高的水平，较比西周和战国时期，在设计和制作方面都要精美得多。因此颇受男人们的喜爱，佩戴者很多；
7、男子保持佩刀习俗，但所佩之刀有形无刃，因此失去了实际价值，主要是显示仪容。
汉代祭服延用“大 制度”，遵从古礼穿冕服佩绶、佩玉。皇帝、公卿、诸侯均用大 ，只是在所系玉石的串珠或丝绳的质地上加以区别。皇太后、太后、公卿夫人等的祭服(谒庙服)、亲蚕服、朝见服和婚礼服的形式都采用深衣制。
汉时劳动女子总是上穿短襦，下穿长裙，膝上装饰长长垂下的腰带。劳动男子常服是上身穿襦，下身穿犊鼻裤，并在衣外围罩布裙；这种装束不分工奴、农奴、商贾、士人都一样。
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